volksrider

After spending a few days trying to get minor dents filled in, adding multiple levels of primer and finally sanding it down with 230 grit paper, I was almost ready for painting. Before I could begin painting the tank, I had to spray a primer sealer over the bottom layers of primer. I found out that etching primer is somewhat reactive to a lot of top coats. Many auto painters seal their etching primer with an epoxy based primer for greater sealing and great moisture protection. Unfortunately, I had only access to aresol primers.

I had to back track some of the primer that built up on the tank do to an unstable base of primer created by your’s truly. When I entered my shop, I realized that something that reduces primer had dribbled onto my tank’s primer base. I grabbed a can of mineral spirit and started to clean it off. That was a big mistake. The mineral spirit caused my top layer of primer to not be able to hold to the lower level primer (it was a primer reducer). I ended up scraping the layers off and rebuilding the primers in the middle of the tank. I must say, after all the sanding I had done prior, I was not looking forward to doing this again. I made it through.

Ok, with the corrections made etching primer, I proceeded to add the primer sealer. I was ready to clean thouroughly and start the painting process. The only important thing I was missing and it was a key factor in the paint process was a paint gun and paint. I purchased a HVLP Devibliss gun online and PPG black semi-gloss paint from a local dealer. This was a learning experience I must say, as I never painted before. The first layer of paint splattered out like a male excited cat un-neutered. I think I created the most detailed orangle peel effect paint layer in the history of HVLP auto painting. I sanded the layer down and painted it the second time with more control and a finer spray. I am Still not sure of the brush adjustments made. I am currently reading documentation on color sanding. Although it doesn’t look too bad, I would like to see if I can get a higher polish look after color sanding it. I am not sure if color sanding comes before or after the clear coat. Here is my gas tank sitting in my car getting me a little excited about my work and what follows.

Here is a picture of the original tank condition.

After reviewing the state of the aftermarket arena, the option of replacing my badly bruised headlights with low quality reproductions lights went from a slim chance to none. I did, however, purchased a set of chrome reproduction rings out of pure desperation, but once I mated them up to my Cibie lenses, I completely scrapped the idea. I needed either a HELLA, BOSCH or CIBIE logo on my lenses of course. Plain glass would make the whole project look aftermarket (cheap) regardless of the fact that the only thing not original is the repro headlights I have installed. I found a few sites that sold new and complete European-style HELLA” lights for around $350. This is great but my beetle has front screw mounts at the times 5 and 7 o’clock. The ones sold new are at 7 and 2 o’clock. This is one of the correct screw positions if you have a 60’s Beetle, but (un) fortunately, I have a late 50’s project going on. I can not help it, I am ruled by perfection.

So, what are the options and what does it translate to in dollars and cents? Well, I could have ordered the new HELLA lights mentioned above for $350 or restore my current set. Below I have listed the financial option for each method of headlights replacements.

New HELLA lights: $350. Aftermarket lights: $90 - $100 Rebuild: $135

This is my suggestion for anyone in the same dilemma. I have estimated the cost of rebuilding my original lights to approximately $135 (actually cheaper, I’ll explain further down) because there is only one major charge in the process and that is re-chroming your rings. If you do your home work, you can get your rings re-chromed for approximately $50 - $ $110. The trick to this is finding a set of rings with no dents. Chrome shops charge extra for dent removal. A pack of sand paper cost around $5.00. And finally, primer (etching, sanding capable and sealing) with a grand total of $10.00. This is the aerosol can type sold in most automotive supply store. And the final cost is black and silver enamel paint $10. You should buy the highest gloss black and silver paint you can find.

Here I stripped the paint off of the old bucket completely with sandpaper and repainted it with black enamel

paint. After the black paint was added, I masked up the outside and painted the inside silver. I also put several layers of clear-coat for protection. With the bucket and the rings restored, I am on third base. I researched a few places to have my headlight rings re-chromed and the prices are rough (a very wide range in prices) and are
written above. Right before I sent my rings off, a friend sold me a pair of NOS rings with the correct time on the
screws for only $45. This was one of my best finds since I located my 1958 that has roots in Southern California
(very dry, low rust).

Here is one of my headlight buckets painted black and silver and ready to be mounted back onto my car with NOS rings. This process has saved me the embarrassment of using cheap reproduction lights and has also saved me roughly $270, had I purchased a new setup from a VW vendor. The last picture shows the headlights mounted on my project car and trust me, my bug is happy to have its original parts back on with a cleaner look. The decision is completely yours, but I do recommend that you keep on your car what the good lord (VW) intended for you to have. This way you are 100% sure that your car has the correct specs.

The end result!

This year, the show in Englishtown NJ was the worst organized ever. The problem started from entering the show area as spectator or auto bragger. The show was held on the opposite side of the racetrack, creating a huge single line of veedubs mixed with spectator’s Fords, Audis, and Toyotas trying to enter the park. From the time you entered the parking lot, your wait was well over 1 hour to enter the show area. To top it off, they still wanted your $15 bux. We should have gotten paid for waiting in line for such a poorly designed show this year. Once I arrived, I was disappointed by the organization of the show cars and more importantly the organization of the swap area. There were things scatter all over the place. A bunch of little dispersed pods of used parts. You could not easily located the beginning or end of the swap area. The previous years of Englishtown, everything was kept nice and tight. There was space designed for the show and space allocated for swapping parts. You could easily re-located a person’s table after you ran around to check if his/her prices were indeed correct. I am still tired from walking 800 feet around barriers, cars and other confused shoppers. If you unfortunately had to located any after-market parts, you had to run straight through the show cars to the other side to look at them. Sometimes I like to compare beat up old part prices with new after-market prices and weigh if it is worth my wild to restore the original part. It was very difficult this year. I hope their fall show takes Sunday’s fiasco into account and does what it takes to get back to the older side of the racetrack. A place where all the attendees on Sunday looked like they desired. On another note, one of the kewlest thing I saw at the show was this VW with multiple cameras connected to the body of the car for filming. They had pictures of some of the shots the camera took. A nice side profile of the front wheels carving through the streets. I’m pretty sure the car was doing only 15 MPH, but the camera angles looked really kewl. Nice job! This was my favor car at the show. Don’t ask me why, but it had a unique color and profiled nicely.